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Sunday, 13 October 2013

English Not Knittish Neck Warmer


I made a neck warmer a few years ago and I wear it regularly as I have a problem with a muscle in my neck that doesn't like the cold! So I was wearing it last Monday when I was collecting my daughter from Taekwondo a nice lady who is learning to knit and who is a red belt admired it and asked me if I could give her the pattern and write it out in "English not Knittish" a phrase that I love!

I searched through my many, every expanding, set of books and magazines for the pattern to no avail so yesterday I decided the only thing for it was to pick up my needles and try and recreate the pattern.

So here it is, I think it's an ideal pattern for a beginner who wants to make something a bit more advanced than a plain scarf but who really doesn't want to deal with shaping just yet, I hope you enjoy it!


Neck Warmer



Materials: 100g main colour (Patons Fab DK)

25g contrast colour (Patons Fab DK)

4mm needles

2 x Safety Pins



Abbreviations:



K              Knit


P               Purl


sl1            Slip one stitch (holding yarn at back of work slip the first slip from

                the left hand needle to the right hand needle without knitting)


st (sts)    Stitch (stitches)


yfwd      bring yarn forward over the needle creating a new stitch on

              the right hand needle


K2tog    Knit 2 stitches together



Pattern

Using Main Colour cast on 2 sts

Row 1: Sl1, yfwd, k to end (3sts)

Row 2: Sl1, yfwd, k to end (4sts)

Repeat these last 2 rows until 30 sts are on the needle

Next Row: Sl1, yfwd, k2tog, k to end

Repeat this row for 2 inches



Divide for first loop

^Set Up: slip the first stitch from the left hand needle onto the right hand (empty) needle, slip the next stitch from the left hand needle to the safety pin and hold at the back of work, continue until all stitches are on either the right hand needle or the safety pin. You should have 15 sts on the needle and 15 sts on the right hand needle. Ignoring the stitches on the safety pin for now slip the stitches back onto the other needle so the stitch with the yarn attached to the ball is the first stitch on the needle. Working on these stitches proceed as follows:

Row 1 K1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of the row

Row 2 P1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row

Continuing in the 1x1 rib (these 2 rows) until the loop is 3 inches long, ending with a Row 2, break the yarn and slip these stitches on the second safety pin.

Now working on the stitches that had been slipped onto the first safety pin, join the yarn to the first stitch and complete to match the first side of the loop.



To Rejoin the Stitches:

Set Up: Place all the stitches back on one needles by slipping the first stitch from the front needle then the first stitch from the second safety pin. Continue until all the stitches are back on a single needle. Rejoin the main colour and continue as follows:^


Main Body

Next Row: Sl1, yfwd, k2tog, k to end of row

Repeat this row until main piece (from end of the first loop) measures 18 inches



Second Loop

Work as first loop from ^ to ^


Second End:

Next Row: Sl1, yfwd, k2tog, k to end of row

Repeat this row until main piece (from end of the first loop) measures 2 inches

Next Row: Sl1, yfwd, k2tog, k to last 4 sts

Repeat the last row unitl 6 sts remain

Next row: sl1, yfwd, k3tog, K2 (5sts)

Next row: sl1, yfwd, k3tog, k1 (4sts)

Next row: sl1, yfwd, k3tog (3sts)

Next row: K3tog

Cut yarn and feed through loop of final stitch and fasten off

Weave in the loose ends of yarn.


Tuesday, 17 September 2013

A Handmade Christmas

Every year craters set themselves a huge workload - crafting some of their Christmas gifts.  I too have done this over the years, it seems natural that you should make personal items for those you hold closest.  The idea of wrapping your loved ones in something that you used your talents and love to make is a wonderful one but every year without fail at some point in December you realise that the idea of making that King Sized throw for your sister was just unrealistic and you head to Boots and pick up a gift set!

So this years challenge will be somewhat limited - I start back to full time work next Monday - but I still want to make some handmade items for those I hold closest.

My 90 years young great aunt loves hand made socks so I've pulled out my Nancy Bush Knitting on The Road book and some King Cole ZigZag (easy to care for) and I'm casting on today for her.  But who else, after 14 years of marriage I just made my first ever item for my husband - a hat!  I am really tempted to make him a jumper but I want to keep it a secret so if I've given myself a deadline of the end of October - If I can finish both pairs of socks for Aunty Kitty and some of the scarfs and hats for my friends kids I will buy the yarn for James's sweater (luckily he's oblivious to my blog).  I'll have to knit it when he's not in the house - but since he works shift it shouldn't be a problem.

So wish me luck and keep an eye here for my progress.

By the way I haven't abandoned my recipes - I'll be posting up a Chocolate Brownie Recipe this week which is fool proof!

Saturday, 31 August 2013

Taking It Easy


I can't believe August is all but over, a friend of mine asked me if I still craft over the summer months, I said I take it easy, can't spin with sweaty hands, don't want a bit heavy piece of work on my lap, you know yourself. It was only afterwards when I actually quantified what I'd made since my last blog post at the end of July that I realised my version of taking it easy and everybody else's may be a bit different.


Firstly – the continuing story of Gina the wonderfleece!


I've dyed up more of her – red food colouring this time but I haven't had time to spin it up as yet.


 

I did spin up the lovely green (on my Louet S15), I plyed it and I got 47m to 40g, not really enough for a project but as it's my first real attempt at taking raw (off the back of a sheep with farmyard bits still attached) and dying and spinning it I was hugely proud of my efforts. I placed it in my knitting bag and brought it with me to the Limerick Stitch'n'Bitch meeting in Limerick's Milk Market two weeks ago. As my friend Liz and I had our wheels with us we attracted a bit of a crowd (I think that's what the market are hoping for as they have invited us and done everything to encourage us to meet there) we were happily answering questions and generally being our usual friendly self. We met a lovely German couple visiting during a holiday, Gabi told us she knits but didn't spin but her gran did and she hadn't seen spinning since she was a young girl. Her adorable husband went back to their car to fetch a shopping bag that Gabi had made – out of CapriSonne packets – it was a stunning creation and so imaginative! We were all very impressed and I decided to gift Gabi the small bit of Gina I had spun so now Gina has come from Dunmanway, gotten a new do, a clean up and spinning in Ballina, Co. Tipperary and is to make her permanent home in Stutgard, she's a well travelled lady! The picture below is Gabi and I posing for Lou to take our photo!






I have more of Gina spun and I'm currently working on plying her on one of my top whorl drop spindles!


Also in the above photo is a half finished hat – it's the Slouchy version of the Diagonal Stripe Hat from the Fall 2013 Knit Simple Magazine. The yarn is Hedgehog Fibres (http://shop.hedgehogfibres.com/) Camel/Silk/Mohair/Falkland roving that I got in one of her clubs, it was a delight to spin (done on my Louet S15) and ply and it's lovely to knit with and I am sure it will be so nice to wear that my daughter will try to steal it and make it her own!

What else now let me see, well hot off the needles is the lovely number below:


It's the Iron Maiden by Maiden Brooklyn (pattern $6 on ravelry), knit up with Debbie Bliss laceweight yarn (I cannot remember the name and I cannot find the ball label – typical!) It's currently being blocked on my bed, I always prefer to take photos of lacework while it's being blocked, I think it's only then that you can really appreciate how light and beautiful the finished item is.




Above is a gift I have (finally) made for my cousin's son's first birthday. I say finally because his birthday was on 2nd of July. It's not that I didn't want to make him something, I really couldn't love the little guy more if her were my nephew it's the yarn/pattern combination I wasn't liking. I bought the yarn in The Black Sheep wool store in Nenagh, Co. Tipperary (lovely lady Sinead who owns it – I recommend supporting her if you get a chance also all independently owned retaillers) I liked the wool but I hate knitting stocking stitch, I get bored and need some colour work, cabling or lacework to keep me interested but the wool just fought with every pattern I tried. Eventually I came across Tama by Kelly Brooker, it may be stocking stitch but because of it's seamless construction it's an interesting knit and I have to say I really enjoyed making it. I also did him a lovely little matching hat – again on dpns so no sewing up – and I am (finally) pleased with the results.



I don't know about other knitters but I always like to have a stash of baby presents made up 'just in case'. I can complete a baby cardi in a night or two and as it's such a quick knit I find it very rewarding when my mojo is stuggling. But alas I found my 'just in case' drawer had emptied and I needed to make up some more – and yet again Kelly Brooker saved the day! Above are my current 'just in case' stash , the pattern is Beyond Puerperium ( a big thank you to Lou for introducing me to Ms Brooker), all of these (including hats) were knit with just one 100g ball of yarn, the buttons actually look better if they don't match so it's an ideal one to lighten the load of your button tin. So all it right with the world – Edell's 'just in case' pile is restored!






I've also made a log cabin cushion cover and need to make another 3!



So as you can see I've been taking it easy over the summer and I have enjoyed it all!



Now I've come up with a dangerous idea – a handmade Christmas – so watch this space!!

Monday, 22 July 2013

Fun With Fibre aka using food dye to make something like yarn!

At a recent meeting of my local stitch and bitch (http://limericksnb.wordpress.com/) Lou brought up an interesting prospect - a friend had gifted her two sheep's fleeces and she, being a novice spinner, didn't have a clue how to tackle it.  Now I'm not an expert, I've dyed prepared fleeces, carded and I'm a reasonable spinner so I suggested a trip to my house with the fleeces in tow, we would have a go and split the proceeds.
 
Meet Gina

 Gina is my fleece of unknown origin, this is her having a bath to remove some of the farmyard, but you know what they say you can take the girl out of the farmyard but it's a pain in the ass to take the farmyard out of the girl!

After cleaning we set about dying her, now I'd love to put up some picture of the various bits of Gina that ended up in the blue and green food dye but I entrusted my camera to my delightful 9 year old and let just say you'll have to use your imagination.

A Little Tutorial on how to dye natural fibre with food colouring:

  1. Place the fibre into a bowl of water and vinegar solution (20 - 25% cheap white vinegar, keep the balsamic for the salad lady)
  2. Leave to infuse for 30 minutes at least and then wring it out in a towel
  3. In another bowl mix your water with food dye, the depth of the colour will depend on how much dye you use
  4. Submerge your damp fibre in the water/dye mixture
  5. Using Professor Ping (the microwave) nuke on high for 5 minutes, leave it in the microwave for a further 5 minutes then remove
  6. Wearing gloves (most important, while the dye is not going to stain your hands forever it will make that first impression memorable at the job interview the next day for all the wrong reasons) take out a small amount of the fibre and squeeze gently over the bowl, if you're happy with the colour you can rinse now until the water runs clear, if not then repeat stages 5 and 6 when the water is cool
  7. Squeeze out the excess water gently and place in a towel and gently squeeze - remember friction = felt!
  8. Card, clean out the last bits of farmyard and enjoy for felting, spinning or just cuddle

We used blue food dye and Gina looks like this


purple - a bit like my Nana's blue rinse!

We also choose green and wow did we like the colour!
Isn't she pretty!

So we carded some for Lou to take home and I have custody of Gina, the remains of which are sitting in my bathtub awaiting further fun with fibre - I have yellow, red and violet food dye to experiment with!!!!!



What a lovely way to spend a July afternoon!

PS Why is Gina called Gina?

A lovely lady from the north of England was living nearish to me, we met at a drop spindle class, she decided to drop the spindle permanently but I did have the pleasure of teaching her to knit socks.  Given how much she loves yarn I keep encouraging her to have a go again but alas she uses her talents elsewhere including taking wonderful photographs of her trips to the seaside with her noble hound Buster!

Thursday, 4 July 2013

Blaincéad Mór agus Beag


 

Blaincéad Mór agus Beag


The name of this pattern is the Irish for Big and Small Blanket – which is exactly what this is – you can choose to make a 6 square blanket, for a pram, or a 12 square blanket, for a cot. But why not make a 25 square lap blanket if you want to try your hand at some lace patterns, colour work or basic cabling without having to concern yourself with shapings – enjoy!








Pram Blanket: W 35 inches x H 25 inches

Layout

Square 2
Colour B
Square 1
Colour A
Square 3
Colour c
Square 5
Colour C
Square 4
Colour : A, B & C
Square 6
Colour B







Cot Blanket: W 35 inces x H 46 inches



Square 2
Colour B
Square 1
Colour A
Square 3
Colour c
Square 5
Colour C
Square 4
Colour : A, B & C
Square 6
Colour B



Square 2
Colour B
Square 1
Colour A
Square 3
Colour c
Square 5
Colour C
Square 4
Colour : A, B & C
Square 6
Colour B



Material Required: Patons FAB DK

Pram Blanket:

Colour A Light Beige Shade 02331 100g

Colour B Dark Beige Shade 02308 100g

Colour C Bright Red Shade 02323 100g



Cot Blanket

Colour A Light Beige Shade 02331 200g

Colour B Dark Beige Shade 02308 200g

Colour C Bright Red Shade 02323 200g

Tension: 20 sts x 20 rows 3 1/4 inches x 3 inches

Using 4mm needles throughout

Square 1



Cast on 52 Sts

Row 1: knit all stitches

Row 2: purl all stitches

Rows 1 and 2 form stocking stitch (st st)

Continue in st st until 72 rows have been worked

Cast off



Square 2

 

Cast on 52 sts
Row 1: K4,* p4, k4, repeat from * to end

Row 2: P4, *k4, p4, repeat from * to end

Row 3: as row 1

Row 4: as row 2

Row 5: as row 2

Row 6: as row 1

Row 7: as row 2

Row 8: as row 1

Rows 1 to 8 form basket weave pattern

Repeat rows 1 to 8 8 times more (72 rows in total)

Cast off

Square 3

Abreviations:

yfwd yarn forward, bring yarn over needle creating a stitch

sl1 slip one stitch knitways

psso pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

K2tog Knit the next 2 stitches together



Cast on 52 sts

Row 1: Knit

Row 2 and every alternate row: purl

Row 3: K5, * yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k6, repeat from * to last 8 sts, yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k3

Row 5: k3, * k2tog, yfwd, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, repeat from * to last 9 sts, k2tog, yfwd, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k4

Row 7: as row 3

Row 9: knit

Row 11: k9, * yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k6, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3

Row 13: K7, * k2tog, yfwd, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, k5

Row 15: as row 11

Row 16: purl

Repeat rows 1 to 16 3 times more, then rows 1 to 8 once – 72 rows in total

Cast off


Square 4


Cast on 52 sts in Colour A

Work 4 rows in st st beinning with a knit row

Change to Colour B and work 4 rows in st st

Change to Colour C and work 4 rows in st st

Change to Colour A and work 2 rows in st st

Change to Colour B and work 2 rows in st st

Change to Colour B and work 2 rows in st st

These 18 rows from the striped pattern

Continue in striping sequence as set until 72 rows have been worked

Cast off



Square 5


Cast on 52 sts

Row 1: K1,*k1, yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k5, k2tog, yfwd, repeat from * to last st, K1

Row 2 and every alternate row: purl

Row 3: K1, *k2, yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yfwd, k1, repeat from * to last st, K1

Row 5: K1, * k1, (yfwd, sl1, k1, psso) twice, k1, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, repeat from * to last st, K1

Row 7: k1, *k2, yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, repeat from * to last st, K1

Row 9: k1, * k3, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2, repeat from * to last st, K1

Row 11: K1, * k2, k2tog, yfwd, k3, yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, repeat from * to last st, K1

Row 13: K1, *k1, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k1, (yfwd, sl1, k1, psso) twice, repeat from * to last st, K1

Row 15: K1, k2tog, * yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, yfwd, k3, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, sl1, k2tog, psso, repeat from * to last 10sts, yfwd, sl1, k1, psso, yfwd, k3, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k2tog

Repeat rows 1 to 16 3 times more then rows 1 to 8 once (72 rows in total)

Cast off



Square 6

Abreviations

C4 B Cable 4 Back, place next 2 st on a cable needle and hold at the back of your work, k2 from

main needle, then k2 from cable needle

C3B Cable 3 Back, place next stitch on a cable needle and hold at the back of your work, K2

from main needle then p1 from cable needle

C3F Cable 3 Front, place next 2 sts on a cable needle and hold at the front of your work, p1

from main needle then k2 from cable needle



Cast on 52 sts

Row 1: k6, p18, k4, p18, k6

Row 2: p6, k18, p4, k18, p6

Row 3: k6, p18, C4B, p18, k6

Row 4: as row 2

Row 5: as row 1

Row 6: as row 2

Row 7: as row 3

Row 8: as row 4

Row 9: K6, p17, C3B, C3F, p17, k6

Row 10: P6, k17, p6, k17, p6

Row 11: K6, p16, C3B, p2, C3F, p16, k6

Row 12: p6, k16, p8, k16, p6

Row 13: k6, p15, C3B, p4, C3F, p15, k6

Row 14: p6, k15, p10, k15, p6

Row 15: k6, p14, C3B, p6, C3F, p14, k6

Row 16: p6, k14, p12, k14, p6

Row 17: k6, p13, C3B, p8, C3F, p13, k6

Row 18: p6, k13, p14, k13, p6

Row 19: k6, p12, C3B, p10, C3F, p12, k6

Row 20: p6, k12, p16, k12, p6

Row 21: k6, p12, C3F, p10, C3B, p12, k6

Row 22: as row 18

Row 23: k6, p13, C3F, p8, C3B, p13, k6

Row 24: as row 16

Row 25: k6, p14, C3F, p6, C3B, p14, k6

Row 26: as row 14

Row 27: K6, p15, C3F, p4, C3B, p15, k6

Row 28: as row 12

Row 29: k6, p16, C3F, p2, C3B, p16, k6

Row 30: as row 10

Row 31: k6, p17, C3F, C3B, p17, k6

Row 32: as row 2

Repeat rows 1 to 32 once more, then rows 1 to 8 once (72 rows in total)

Cast off



Making Up

Sew the rectangles together, using mattress stitch where possible, in the sequence given on the layout charts at the beginning of this pattern. Weave in any loose ends.



Side Borders (make 2)

Using Colour A cast on 15 sts and knit 1 row

Row1: knit

Row 2: sl1, k1, psso, k to end (14 sts)

Row 3: knit

Row 4: sl1, k1, psso, k to end (13 sts)

Row 5: knit

Row 6: sl1, k1, psso, k to end (12 sts)

Row 7: knit

Row 8: sl1, k1, psso, k to end (11 sts)

Row 9: knit

Row 10: sl1, k1, psso, k to end (10 sts)

Row 11: knit

Row 12: cast on 5 sts, knit to end

Repeat rows 1 to 12 until border measures the same lenght as the side of the blanket

Cast off



Top and Bottom Borders

With RS facing and using Colour B pick up and knit 14 sts from side border, 150 sts from the main body of the blanket (50 sts per panel) and 14 sts from the other border – 178 sts

Work 10 rows in garter stitch (every row knit)

Cast off

Repeat at bottom of the blanket



Weave in any loose ends



Check ball band for pressing and laundering instructions



Copyright Edell McLoughlin 2013

This pattern is the intellectual property of the designer, Edell McLoughlin. The designer gives the user the right to use the pattern free of charge. However it is given on the condition that is is only used for non-commercial purposes.




Friday, 28 June 2013

Coming Soon ........................

My next pattern is coming along nicely - a lovely pattern for a pram blanket that can be adjusted to cot blanket and lap blanket size.

Its made up of a number of different patterned squares so that novice knitters can try their hand at some colour work, cabling and lace, but if they find any of these not to their taste they can substitute it for a different square.

I'm also going to include instructions for 2 different types of edging so the knitter can personalise the design.

It's aimed at the novice who wants to tip their toe into some new skills without having to worry about fiddly shapings (its made in relatively small squares and sewed together) but it's also got enough in it to keep the more experienced knitter interested!

Pictures and pattern will be up before next Friday and will be free of charge, it's also available printed from Hickeys of Cruises Street Limerick and Hickeys Home Focus, Parkway Retail Park, Limerick, again free of charge with any purchase of yarn.

Saturday, 8 June 2013

Free Knitting Pattern - Basic Raglan Sleeved Baby Cardigan

I'm trying to make life simplier for us knitters so here is a free pattern for a basic raglan sleeved baby cardigan.

Feel free to use it and enjoy it, change it and make it your own, however I'd prefer if you didn't sell your finished items as I've chosen not to profit from this pattern it would only be fair if you didn't either!




To Fit (Age)
0-3 months
3-6 months
To Fit Chest Size
16 inches
18 inches
Actual Chest Size
20 inches
22 inches
Full Lenght to Shoulder
9 1/2 inches
10 1/2 inches
Sleeve Lenght (Adjustable)
6 inches
6 1/2 inches



Figures in brackets refer to the larger size

Abreviations

K Knit

P Purl

Sl1 Slip one stitch

Psso Pass slip stitch over the knitted one

K2tog Knit 2 together

sts Stitches

Yrn fwd Yarn forward, wrap yarn around needle making a stitch

M1 Make 1 stitch



Back



Using 3 1/4 mm needesl cast on 55 (59) sts

1st Row: K1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end

2nd Row: P1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end

These 2 rows form 1 x 1 rib, repeat a further 4 times (10 rib rows in total)



Change to 4mm needles and work in stocking stitch throughout (1 row knit, 1 row purl) until the back measures 5 (6) inches ending with a wrong side row



Shape Raglan

Cast off 2 (3) sts at the beginning of the next two rows.

Next row: K2, sl1, k1, psso, knit to the last 4 stitches, K2tog, K2

Next row: purl to end

Repeat these two rows until 17 (19) stitches remain

Cast off



Left Front



Using 3 1/4mm needles cast on 31 (33) sts

Work 10 rows in 1x1 rib as given for the back

Next row: knit to last 6 sts, place these stitches on a stitch holder or safety pin for button border

Working on the remaining 25 (27) sts and commencing with a purl row work in stocking stitch unitl the piece measures 5 (6) inches ending with a wrong side row.



Shape Raglan and Neck Edge

Next Row: Cast off 2 (3) sts, knit to last 3sts, K2tog, K1

Next Row: purl

Decrease raglan edge as set for back at beginning of next and every alternative row and at the same time decrease 1 stitch as set at neck edge in 9th (7th) and every following 10th (8th) row 3 (4) times

4 (3) sts remain

Next row: purl

Next row: K2 (1) sl1, k1, psso [3(2)sts]



For smaller size only

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso

Next row: purl

For both sizes

Next row K2tog, Fasten Off



Right Front

Using 3 1/4mm needles cast on 31 (33) sts

Work 4 rows in 1 x 1 rib

Next row: K1, p1, k1, yrn fwd, k2tog, rib to end

Work 4 rows in 1 x 1 rib

Next row: rib to last 6 sts, leave these remaining 6 stitches on a stitch holder or safety pin

Change to 4mm needles and working in stocking stitch until the front measures 5 (6) inches ending on a wrong side row:

Shape Raglan and Neck Edge

Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso, knit to end

Next row: Cast off 2 stitches, purl to end



Work to match left front reversing shapings.



Sleeves (Both Alike)

Using 3 1/4mm needles cast on 29 (29) stitches

Work in 1 x 1 rib for 7 rows

Next row: Rib 2(2) m1, *rib 5 (5) m1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, rib 2(2) [35 (35)sts]

Change to 4mm needles and working in stocking stitch throughout increace at each end of 5th and every following 6th row to 45 (47) sts

Continue to work in stocking stitch without shaping until sleeves measures 6 (6 1/2) inches ending with a ws row

Shape Raglan

Cast off 2 (3) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows [41 (43) sts]

Next row: k2, sl1, k1, psso, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2

Next row: purl

Repeat the last 2 rows until 7 (7) sts remain

Cast off





Make up

Using matress stitch to sew up the seams join the sleeves to the back and fronts, sew side seams



Button Border (Left front border)

Using 3 1/4mm needles cast on 1 st and with right side facing pick up the 6 stitches from the safety pin (7 sts) and proceed as follows:

Next row: k1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end

Next row: p1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end

Repeat the last 2 rows until the button border is long enough to reach up the front and to the middle of the back piece, cast off in rib and sew in place.

Sew button border in place, place first button to match the buttonhole on the right front rib, place the top button on the border just before the neck shaping commences, and the middle button between these two buttons.



Buttonhole Border (Right front border)

Using 3 1/4mm needles cast on 1 st and with wrong side facing pick up the 6 stitches from the safety pins and proceed as follows:

Next row: p1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end

Next row: k1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end

Work buttonhole row, as follows, to match the buttons placed on the button band:

With rs facing K1, p1, k1, yrn fwd, k2tog, p1, k1

Once both buttonholes have been made continue in 1x1 rib until border reaches the middle of the back neck.

Cast off.

Sew buttonhole border in place.



Weave in any loose ends and consult the yarn band for laundering instructions (if needed)





Copyright Edell McLoughlin 2013

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